Kol ‘a Zawkak, Lbos ‘a Zawk El Ness: An extremely common Lebanese saying that translates to Eat to your own taste, and dress to the taste of others.
Lebanon’s rich and complex history, including the rule by the Ottoman Empire and the French control, has etched its way into the country’s food and dining scene. Today, with the chronic political division and dispute, the country seems to be regressing economically; however, the food industry remains impervious and on the rise with new additions to its rich and already diverse food scene. With all the new additions, the classics remain, and are longed for by locals, tourists and Lebanese immigrants who fail to rediscover the tastes offered by the restaurants in the land of Cedars elsewhere in the world.
These classics include the plentiful breakfast options. On the top of the list is the Manoushe (aka Manakish) – prepared in bakeries that are found at almost every street corner in Beirut. It is a round piece of dough topped with a thyme (zaatar) and oil (zeyt) mix, and then thrown into a brick oven. This is one of the cheapest meals offered in the country, with the price usually being 1,000 LBP (0.66$). The Manoushe is also offered with many other ingredients such as veggies, cheese, chili cheese, ground meat, etc. all equally delicious to the classic ‘zaatar w zeyt’ combination.
Breakfast choices are not restricted to the above, with numerous cafes offering traditional Western breakfasts such as eggs or pancakes, but to remain local; another meal that one should not skip in Lebanon is Knefeh. This one is more on the sweet side as it is a thin noodle-like pastry, dipped in sugary syrup and topped with melted cheese – lots of cheese! An ‘oriental cheesecake’ that is served hot in a special sesame bun.
Find this cheesy delight at any local oriental sweets shop such as L’abeille d’or, Bohsali, Douaihy, Sea Sweet, Sibon, or Hallab 1881. While at it, make sure to check out the oriental sweet section for many delicious choices such as Baklava, Halawet El Jebn, Burma, Maamoul, Ghorabiyyeh, Basbousa, etc.
Forget breakfast; let’s talk about lunch/dinner and specifically about the well-known Lebanese mezza. Served at the beginning of a multi-course meal, mezzas are simply too delicious to not just eat as meal itself. Usually divided into two categories of cold and hot. With over 50 different options available, every restaurant has its individual way of preparing and serving these dishes, but the ones that you will find everywhere and are ‘must try-s’ are the Hummus, Baba Ghanouj, Fattoush, Tabboule, Rkakat (Cheese Rolls), Kebbe, Warak Enab (Stuffed Grape leaves), Batata Harra (chili potato cubes) and many others.
Typically, a platter of grilled meat choices follows the mezza plates, and contains a selection of kebabs that can be prepared either with beef, veal, or chicken.
For an authentic Lebanese experience, one is usually advised to go further up the mountains and away from the City to restaurants like L’Os, Mounir, Burj Al Hammam, and Fawzi. That doesn’t mean that you can’t have a fine experience in Beirut with a wealth of restaurants offering traditional Lebanese dishes. Common city restaurants include Enab, Em Sherif, Al Falamanki, El Denye Hek, Diwan, and Abd Al Wahab just to name a few.
If you want to get a more local experience without denting your wallet, pay a visit to T-Marbouta or Bayt Em Nazih in Hamra.
Note that as you are escorted to your seat, it is customary for the waiter to ask you if you want to start your night with a Shisha. If you answer with yes, make sure to ask for the available flavors, the most common of which are the Tefehten (double apple) and the Hamod w Na’na’ (Lemon and Mint).
It is also customary to accompany Lebanese meals with alcoholic drinks; a local favorite is Arak: a translucent white unsweetened anise-flavored drink that is found in all Lebanese restaurants. Cheers!
Check out 10 Things To Do In Lebanon post.
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